Everything about The River Wear totally explained
The
River Wear (("wee-er")) is a river in
North East England, rising in the
Pennines and flowing eastwards, mostly through
County Durham, to the
North Sea at
Sunderland.
Geology and History
The Wear rises in the east Pennines, an upland area raised up during the
Caledonian orogeny. Specifically, the Weardale Granite underlies the headwaters of the Wear. Devonian
Old Red Sandstone in age, the Weardale Granite doesn't outcrop, but was initially surmised, and subsequently proved, as a result of the Rookhope borehole. It is the presence of this granite that has both retained the upland nature of this area (less through its relative hardness, and more due to isostatic equilibrium), and accounts for heavy local mineralisation, although it's considered that most of the mineralisation occurred during the Carboniferous period. Mining of lead ore has been known in the area of the headwaters of the Wear since Roman times, and continued into the nineteenth century when it accounts for the early extension of the then-new railways westwards along the
Wear valley.
Fluorspar, another mineral associated with the intrusion of the Weardale Granite, became important in the manufacture of steel from the late c19 into the c20; previously unwanted dumps of it were taken away for this purpose. Along with overlying
Carboniferous Limestone and
Carboniferous Coal Measures, both important raw materials for iron and steel manufacture, as well as
Carboniferous sandstone, useful as a refractory material, the local presence of
fluorspar explains why iron and steel manufacture flourished in the
Wear valley, Consett and Teesside during the
nineteenth century; ironstone was won from around Consett and Tow Law, then around Rookhope, while greater quantities were imported from south of the Tees. These sources were in due course used up or became uneconomic. Spoil heaps from the abandoned lead mines can still be seen, and since the last quarter of the
twentieth century have been the focus of attention for the recovery of gangue minerals, such as
fluorspar for the smelting of
aluminium. However, abandoned mines and their spoil heaps continue to contribute to the mineral pollution of the river and its tributaries. This has significance because the River Wear is an important source of drinking water for many of the inhabitants along its course. The former cement works at Eastgate, until recently run by Steetley, was based on an inlier of limestone.
The upland area of Upper Weardale retains a flora that relates, almost uniquely in
England, to the end of the
last Ice Age, although it almost or entirely lacks the particular rarities that make up the unique "Teesdale Assemblage" of post-glacial plants. This may, in part, be due to the Pennine areas of Upper Weardale and Upper Teesdale being the site of the shrinking
ice cap. The glaciation left behind many indications of its presence, including lateral
moraines and material from the
Lake District and Northumberland, although surprisingly few
drumlins. After the Ice Age, the Wear valley became thickly forested. During the
Neolithic period and increasingly in the
Bronze Age, the forests were progressively cleared for agriculture.
It is thought that the course of the River Wear, prior to the last
Ice Age, was much as it's now as far as Chester-le-Street. This can be established as a result of boreholes, of which there have been many in the Wear valley due to
coal mining. However, northwards from Chester-le-Street, the Wear may have originally followed the current route of the lower
River Team. The last glaciation reached its peak about 18,500 years ago, from which time it also began a progressive retreat, leaving a wide variety of glacial deposits in its wake, filling existing river valleys with silt, sand and other
glacial till. At about 14,000 years ago, retreat of the ice paused for maybe 500 years at the city of
Durham. This can be established by the types of glacial deposits in the vicinity of Durham City. The confluence of the
River Browney was pushed from Gilesgate (the abandoned river valley still exists in Pelaw Woods), several miles south to Sunderland Bridge (Croxdale). At Chester-le-Street, when glacial
boulder clay was deposited blocking its northerly course, the River Wear was diverted eastwards towards Sunderland where it was forced to cut a new, shallower valley. The gorge cut by the river through the Permian magnesian limestone can be seen most clearly at Ford Quarry.
In the 17th edition of Encycloaedia Britannica (1990), reference is made to a pre-Ice Age course of the River Wear outfalling at
Hartlepool.
Much of the River Wear is associated with the history of the
Industrial Revolution. Its upper end runs through lead mining country, until this gives way to coal seams of the Durham coalfield for the rest of its length. As a result of limestone quarrying, lead mining and coal mining, the Wear valley was amongst the first places to see the development of railways. The
Weardale Railway continues to run occasional services between Stanhope and Wolsingham.
Course
Rising in the east
Pennines, its head waters consisting of several streams draining from the hills between Killhope Law and
Burnhope Seat, the head of the river is held to be in
Wearhead,
County Durham at the confluence of Burnhope Burn and Killhope Burn. This is shown on Ordnance Survey maps, and on the County Durham GIS online. However, a map produced by Durham County Council, and used on an interpretation board at Cowshill shows the River Wear extending from Wearhead to Killhope. Excepting that this apparent extension of the Wear is an error, it can be assumed that there are attempts to reclassify Killhope Burn as the River Wear. This would make sense, as it would then give the River Wear a source.
The river flows eastwards through
Weardale, one of the larger valleys of west
County Durham, subsequently turning south-east, and then north-east, meandering its way through the Wear Valley and County Durham to the
North Sea where it outfalls at Wearmouth on
Wearside in
Sunderland. The river is 96 km (60 miles) from head to mouth. Prior to the creation of
Tyne and Wear, the Wear had been the longest river in England with a course entirely within one county. The
Weardale Way, a long-distance public footpath, roughly follows the entire route, including the length of Killhope Burn.
Wearhead to Bishop Auckland
There are several towns, sights and tourist places along the length of the river. The market town of
Stanhope is known in part for the ford across the river. From here the river is followed by the line of the
Weardale Railway, which crosses the river several times, through
Frosterley,
Wolsingham, and
Witton-le-Wear to
Bishop Auckland.
Bishop Auckland to Durham
On the edge of
Bishop Auckland the Wear passes below Auckland Park and
Auckland Castle, the official residence of the
Bishop of Durham and its
Deer Park. A mile or so downstream from here, the Wear passes
Binchester Roman Fort,
Vinovia, having been crossed by
Dere Street, the Roman road running from
Eboracum (now
York} to
Coria (now
Corbridge) close to
Hadrian's Wall. From Bishop Auckland the River Wear meanders in a general northeasterly direction, demonstrating many fluvial features of a mature river, including wide valley walls, fertile
flood plains and ox-bow lakes. Bridges over the river become more substantial, such as those at
Sunderland Bridge (near
Croxdale), and
Shincliffe. At Sunderland Bridge the
River Browney joins the River Wear.
Durham
When it reaches the city of
Durham the River Wear passes through a deep, wooded gorge, from which several springs emerge, historically used as sources of
potable water. A few coal seams are visible in the banks. Twisting sinuously in an incised
meander, the river has cut deeply into the "Cathedral Sandstone" bedrock. The high ground enclosed by this meander is known as the peninsula, forming a defensive enclosure, at whose heart lies
Durham Castle and
Durham Cathedral and which developed around
the Bailey into Durham city. That area is now a UN
World Heritage Site. Beneath Elvet Bridge are Brown's Boats (rowing boats for hire) and the mooring for the Prince Bishop, a pleasure cruiser.
The River Wear at Durham was featured on a television programme
Seven Natural Wonders as one of the wonders of
Northern England.
In June each year, the
Durham Regatta, which predates that at
Henley, attracts rowing crews from around the region for races along the river's course through the city.
Two weirs impede the flow of the river at Durham, both originally created for industrial activities. The Old Fulling Mill is now an archaeological museum. The second weir, beneath Milburngate Bridge, now includes a salmon leap and fish counter, monitoring
sea trout and
salmon, and is on the site of a former ford. Considering that 138,000 fish have been counted migrating upriver since 1994, it may not be surprising that a family of cormorants live on this weir, and can frequently be watched stretching their wings in an attempt to cool off after feeding.
The river's
Elvet Banks also lend their name to a tune in the
LCMS 2006 hymnbook, used (appropriately) for a
hymn for
baptism.
Durham to Chester-le-Street
Between Durham City and
Chester-le-Street, ten miles due north, the River Wear changes direction repeatedly, flowing south westwards several miles downstream having passed the medieval site of
Finchale Priory, a former chapel and later a satellite monastery depending on the abbey church of
Durham Cathedral. Two miles downstream, the river is flowing south eastwards. The only road bridge over the Wear between Durham and Chester-le-Street is Cocken Bridge. As it passes
Chester-le-Street, where the river is overlooked by
Lumley Castle, its flood plain has been developed into
The Riverside, the home pitch of
Durham County Cricket Club. Passing through the Lambton Estate (still owned by the Lambton family, and briefly a lion park during the
1970s) the river becomes tidal, and therefore navigable.
Chester-le-Street to Sunderland
On exiting the Lambton estate the river leaves County Durham and enters the
City of Sunderland, specifically the southern/south-eastern edge of the new town of
Washington. At
Fatfield the river passes beneath
Worm Hill, around which the
Lambton Worm is reputed to have curled its tail.
Already the riverbanks are showing evidence of past industrialisation, with former collieries and chemical works. A little further downstream the river passes beneath the Victoria Viaduct. Named after the newly-crowned queen, the railway viaduct opened in 1838, was the crowning achievement of the
Leamside Line, then carrying the
East Coast Main Line. A mile to the east is
Penshaw Monument, a local iconic landmark. As the river leaves the environs of Washington, it forms the eastern boundary of
Washington Wildfowl Trust.
Sunderland
Having flowed beneath the
A19 trunk road, the river enters the suburbs of
Sunderland. The riverbanks show further evidence of past industrialisation, with former collieries, engineering works and dozens of
shipyards. In their time, Wearside shipbuilders were some of the most famous and productive shipyards in the world. The artist
L. S. Lowry visited Sunderland repeatedly and painted pictures of the industrial landscape around the river. Three bridges cross the Wear in Sunderland: the
Queen Alexandra Bridge to the west, and the Wearmouth rail and
road bridges in the city centre.
On both banks at this point there are modern developments, some belonging to the
University of Sunderland (
St. Peter's Campus; Scotia Quay residences) and to the
National Glass Centre. A riverside
sculpture trail runs alongside this final section of its north bank. The St Peter's Riverside Sculpture Project was created by Colin Wilbourn, with crime novelist and ex-poet
Chaz Brenchley. They worked closely with community groups, residents and schools.
As the river approaches the sea, the north bank (Roker) has a substantial residential development and marina. A dolphin nick-named Freddie was a frequent visitor to the marina, attracting much local publicity. However, concern was expressed that acclimatising the dolphin to human presence might put at risk the safety of the dolphin regarding the propellors of marine craft. The south bank of the river is occupied by what remains of the Port of Sunderland, once thriving and now almost gone.
The River Wear flows out of Sunderland between
Roker Pier and South Pier, and into the
North Sea.
Further Information
Get more info on 'River Wear'.
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